Sewing-machine



(No Model.)

H. P. ALDRIGH.`

SEWING MACHINE.

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N H mi" WITNESEEE (No Model.) 2 sheets-sheet 2. H. P. ALDRICH.

SEWING MACHINE. No. 393,414. Patented Nov. 27,1883.

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HOSEA P. ALDRCH, OF SOMERVILLE, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part ci Letters Patent No. 393,414, dated November27, 1888.

Application tiled November l0, 1,186, Serial No. 218,478.

To all whom, it may concern,.-

Be it known that I, l-,Iosna P. ALDRICH, of Somerville, county ofMiddlesex, State of Massachusetts, havevinvented an Improvement inSewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection withthe accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on thedrawings representing like parts.

My invention relating to sewing-machines is embodied in adouble-threadlock-stitch machine using waxed thread, and especially intended forvarious kinds of leather-work. The main devices for forming the stitchmay be and are shown as of usual construction, and comprise an awloperating above the work-snpport to pierce the material, a hooked needlethat enters the hole thus made 'from below the work-support, athread-guide or looper above the work-support that throws t-he upperthread into the hook of the needle when projecting above the material, anda shuttle containing the under thread,whieh is thrown through the loopof upper thread that is drawn down below the under surface of thematerial being sewed by the hooked needle.

The invention consists, mainly, in details of construction of thedevices for presenting the thread to the stitch-forming devices beforementioned; for regulating the tension of the upper and under threads;for taking up the loop in the upper thread after the under thread hasbeen passed through it hy the shuttle, and for applying the waX to thethread and retaining the parts properly heated, so that the wax remainssoft and pliable, and in various combinations of devices co-operatingwith the 'main stitch-forming appliances, as will be hereinafterspecified.

Sonie of the devices forming the subject of this invention are notabsolutely essential to the operation of the machine, but areauxiliaries that increase the certainty and positiveness of theoperation of the other parts, and thus enable the sewing to be made morerapidly and with greater uniformity than can be effected without suchauxiliary devices.

The machineA is shown as having an awlfeed; but this is not essential,as any suitable means for feeding the stock may be employed.

An important feature of the invention consists in the means employed foreontrollingthe (No model.)

tension of the upper th rcad,waxin g the thread, supplying it to thestitch-forming devices,and taking up the thread that has been requiredto form a loop sufficiently large for the shuttle to pass through. Thewax for the upper thread is contained in a stationary receptacle orreservoir, (shown as heated by a steam-pipe passing through it,) andfrom the said reservoir the Wax is carried by suitable passages to atake-up device or vibrating arm, upon which is supported thetension-wheel for the upper thread, and also a small waxing-receptaclehaving perforated nuts at its opposite ends, through which the threadpasses from the tension-wheel to the stitch-forming devices. by whichthe moving` waxing-receptacle on the vibrating arm or take-up isretained in constant communication with the wax-reservoir, and by whicha constant circulation of steam is also maintained on the said arm forthe purpose of keeping the small moving wax-receptacle heated, and steamis also kept circulating through pipes along the shuttle-racc, so thatthe shuttle and under thread are kept heated by the conduction of heatthrough the metallic parts. The tension-wheel is provided with a brakeor stop that prevents it from turning while the take-up arm is makingits .up-and-down movement,and the said brake is released at the end ofthe upward movement of the arm, by which the last stitch is drawn up,and at this moment enough thread is drawn off over the tension-wheel forthe next stitch.

The machine is provided with a threadmeasuring device which holdstheupper thread in such position that the hook ot' the needle will drawdown the loop of thread without causing the thread to run through thehook, thus relieving the thread from the wear which it would otherwiseget, and while such a threadmeasuring device is not broadly new, it isbelieved that the arrangement of the said device with relation to theother parts and the means for actuating it are novel. The other novelfeatures will be described in connection with the drawings thatillustrate the machine.

Figure l is a side elevation of a sewing-niachine embodying thisinvention with parts of the frame-work'broken away; Fig. 2, a sectionaldetail on line X X, Fig. 1, showing in Suitable connections or ports aremade Y IOO plan view the thread guide or looper, the thread-measuringdevice, presser-foot, worksupport, and some of the parts below; Fig. 3,a front end elevation ofthe machine, showing only the parts at the frontend of the machine; Fig. 4, a sectional view through the shuttleraeeshowing the shuttle and shuttle carrier as seen when looking from therear toward the front of the machine; Fig. 5, a plan view of theshuttle-carrier, showing the shuttle and a part of the shuttle-race indotted lines; Fig. G, a horizontal sectional detail on line .s c, Fig.3; Fig. 7, a longitudinal section of the shuttle; Fig. S, a plan View ofthe hub or axis of the vibrating take-up arm; Figs. 9 and 10, detailsillust ating the operation of the looper or thread-guide andthread-measuring device.

The main framework of the machine, comprising a base portion, a, thatsupports the operative devices below the material being sewed, and anarm, c', that supports the devices above the material, may be of anysuitable shape, material, and colistruction, varying somewhat with thenature of the material to be operated upon. The working parts are allactuated by a main shaft, b, (shown as driven by a pulley, b', in theusual manner.) There is nothing of novelty in the devices for actuatingthe awl c, needle d, looper or threadguide e, and presser-footf, all ofwhich,except the needle, are shown as actuated by mechanismsubstantially the same as shown in Patent No. 332,317, granted to meDecember 15, 1885, to which reference may be had. The actuatingmechanism for these parts may bc briefly pointed out as follows: rllheawl-bar c', which is vertically movable in guides in a carriage, ci, isconnected by a link,"c", with an arm, c', on the shaft c5, all bestshown in Fig. 3, which shaft is provided at the rear of the machine (seeFig. 1) with an arm, c", connected by a link, c7, with a lever, c,provided with a pro jection that enters a groovein a cam, c", on themain shaft b, and through these connections each rotation of the mainshaft causes an tip-- and-down movement of the awl catthe proper timewith relation to the movement of the other parts.

The carriage ci, in which the awl-bar moves, is connected by a dovetailguide, as shown in Fig. l, with the end of the arm a of the machine,andis horizontally movable on the said guide to produce the feed of thematerial. r1`his horizontal movement of the carriage is produced at theproper times-mame] y, in one direction while the awl is in the material,and in the opposite direction when the aw] is out of the material-bymeans of an arm, c", (see Fig. 3,) on a shaft, c, extending along therear of the arm a', as seen in Fig. l., the said shaft c being providedat its other end with another arm, c, connected by a link, c, with anarm, c, actuated bya cani, 0"", on the main shaft.

The pressenfootf is supported on a bar, f (sec Fig. 3,) having a nut orprojection, f2, at its upper end, and a sleeve, f3, free to move up anddown on the said bar, but engaging the projection f in its upwardmovement, and thus raising the bar and presser-foot from the materialbeing sewed at the time that the lateral or feed movement ofthe awltakes place. This sleevef is connected by a link.f', with an arnnf, (seeFig. 1,) on a shaft, f", (shown as a hollow shaft,) having its bearingson the shaft c, although it might have independent bearings, if desired.The said shaftf is provided near the rear of the machine with an arm,f", connected by a link, f, with an arm, f, actuated by a cam, f, on themain shaft l. These trains of mechanism from the main shaft to the awl,awt-bar carriage, and presserfoot are all substantially alike, except inthe shape and positions ofthe cams, and the arms c, ci", and f that areactuated directly from the different eams,are all fulcrumed on a rod, c,supported in brackets a on the base of the machine.

rilhe looper or thread guide c is fastened upon an oscillating shaft,c', provided with an arm, l?, (see Fig. 3,) connected by a link, c, withan arm, c, at the upper end of a vertical rockshaft, c", having an arm,e", at its lower end engaged and operated by a cam, el, on the mainshaft b, as in the patent hereinbcfore mentioned.

The threadmeasu rer g, the function and operation of which will behereinafter more fully explained, consists of a finger forked or notchedat its end, as best shown in Figs. 2 and 10, connected with a sleeve,g', of the looper-shaft, and is provided with an arm or crank-pinconnected by a link, y, with an arm, g, on a vertical rock-shaft, g5,provided with an arm, g, actuated by a cam, gl, on the main shaft b,andthe mode ot' operation of this connecting mechanism between the mainshaft and the threadmeasnrer is substantially the same as that whichactnates the thread-guide, which is the same as shown and described inPatent No. 113,962, granted to me April 25, 1871.

The hooked needle d below the plate or work-support h of the machine issupported on a bar, d', (see Fig. 4,) connected by a link, d2, (see Fig.1,) with an arm, di, pivoted on a shaft, d", and actuated by a cam, d,on the main shaft b. rlhe said necdlebar d works in a guide-passageformed in an upright, a3, projecting from the base of the machine, theupper portion of which upright forms a shutt1e race, a, which isentirely open at one side, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 3.

rlhe shuttle i is shown as made mainly of a single piece of metal ofsomewhat irregular shape externally, as shown in the various gures,having a longitudinal cylindrical bore, as shown in Fig. 7, and a cap,i', that screws into the end of the bore and holds the bobbin 2 inplace, said bobbin bearing at one end on a yielding pivot or step, i3,and resting at its other end against a friction plate, i, which may bepressed against the end of the bobbin with greater or less force by afollower, i5, having a split threaded stem working in a threaded IOO IIO

opening in the cap t, and fastened when properly adjusted by ataperingscrew, i6. By turning the follower t5 inward toward the body of theshuttle the spring at the other end will he compressed, and thus causegreater pressure on the friction disk i* and increased resistance torotation of the bobbin il until the thread is caused to draw oft'properly from the said bobbin, the thread passing out through anopening, is, in the upper part of the shuttle. It is preferable to waxthe thread before winding it on the bobbin il, and when the machine isin operation the entire shuttle and inclosed thread are kept heated, bymeans hereinafter described, sutiieiently to kcepthe thread soft andpliable. The upper thread, 7c, Fig. l, is taken dry or unwaxed from abali or yspool and passed through a suitable guide, 7c', on an arm,cl,pivoted at the side'of the arm a' ot' the machine, and from the saidguide lc the thread passes around a tensionwheel, pivoted on the end ofthe arm It and having the resistance to its rotary movement adjusted bya friction device, as is usual on the tension- V wheels ofsewing-machines, which wheels are not, however, usually placed on thevibrating take-up arm, as in this invention. From the wheel k3 thethread passes through the waxingreceptacle It", which is ashort cylinderfastened on the end of the take-up arm k'land having its ends partiallyclosed by plugs or nuts h5, having openings through which the threadpasses, the thread lling the said openings, so that the wax will not runout, but the thread will be thoroughly saturated with wax in pass` ingthrough the said waxing-chamber, vfrom which it is carried through theeye ot' the thread-guide or looper e, which operates to place thethreadin the hook ot' the needle d in the usual manner.

The hot melted Wax is supplied from a reservoir, on, having an outletpipe, m', that passes to a ring or collar, m2, that is stationary on thepin ma, on which the takeAup arm k2 turns, and bears laterally against aring or collar, m", that turns with the arm k2 about the pin m3 as anaxis, and is provided with a pipe, in, that leads tov thewaxing-receptacle liz. rlhis construction maintains a constant communication between the waxing-1cceptaele k" and the wax-reservoirm, whilepermitting the wax-receptacle t to move with the arm r'l; but it isobvious that a iiexible duct may be employed to convey the wax from thereservoir to the receptacle, instead of the jointed connection in ml.erly melted in the receptacle m by a steanr pipe, n, that passes throughthe same and out from the receptacle, as indicated at n', and the saidpipe forms a continuous circuit t'or the iiow ot' steam around all theparts of the machine that have to be heated. It is necessary to keep thearm and wax-receptacle It* heated, and this is eiiected as follows: Thesteam-pipe a', issuing from the wax-reservoir in, passes to a collar,ai, (see Fig. 8,) on the pin m3 ofthe takeup arm k2, and the said pipe nconnects lThe wax is retained propthrough a lateral port in the saidcollar, as indicated in dotted lines, Fig. 8, with a correspondinglateral port in the ring m", and with a pipe, n, which extends along thearm 7c, as shown in Fig. 1, out nearly to the wax-receptacle 76, and isthen turued'hack on itself and again enters the ring in", as indicatedat a5, Figs. i and S, where it is connected through lateral ports,similar to those before described, with a stationary pipe, n, whichpasses from the stationary collar ai', and is then led, as shown in Fig.l, over to the upright tti of the machine, and then passes back andforth along the side of the raceway, as represented at ai, Figs. l and3. after which the end as of the pipe is carried to any desired point todischarge the steam and condensed water.

The collar n2 has a tubular hub (indicated in dotted lines at if, Fig.S) extending along over the pin mi and within the rings m2 and mt, andthe ringmq is held in place on the tubular hui) if" by a nut, n, whichmay be turned up, so as to cause the ported side faces of the rings mt',m1, and ai to bear against one another sufficiently to prevent leakageeither of the Steam or wax when passing from the stationary rings mL n!into the ring m, that turns on the hub n?" with the arm .73'. Thewaxreservoir and wax-receptacle and duct connecting them are thusretained heated, so that the wax flows readily to the receptacle andsaturates the upper thread as it passes through the same, and theshuttle-race and shuttle are also kept thoroughly heated by conductionfrom the pipe n?, so as to keep the under thread in the proper state ofpliability.

The take-up arm 7.? is provided with an arm, ICH, connected by a link,lc, with one arm of the lever la, the other arm of which is engaged andoperated by a hub, la, on the main shaft b, and thus produces thevibrating movement ofthe take-up arni at the proper times, adjustabilityofthis movement being provided for in the usual manner by a slottedconnection between the link koand lever kas clearly shown in Fig. 1.. Byhaving the waxingreeeptacle fastened to and movable with the take-up thethread merely passes through the said receptacle in proportion as it isused,and is not drawn back and forth through the receptacle at everystitch, as is the case when the thread passes through a stationarywaxingreceptacle located at some point between the stiteh-forn1ingdevices and the take-up.

The tension wheel 7c is provided with a brake, 0, mounted on a lever, o,pivoted on the arm kand acted upon by aspring, 02,that normally forcesit against the wheel 7c3, so as to prevent the same from turning duringthe up-anddown movement ofthe take-up lever lc". At the end of theupward movement of the said lever the end of the arm o comes in contactwith a cam, ot, on the framed', which raises it from the tension-wheelk, leaving the latter to tnrn with only resistance required to give theproper tension to the upper thread. llhe tension-wheel is thus releasedfrom the IOO brakcjnst as the stitch is being formed and drawn up tight,and at this time the feed of the stock takes place and a sufficientamount of thread is drawn over the tension-wheel and through thewaXing-ieeeptaele k* for the next stitch. At this time the loopcr orthread guide e is back from the path ofthe needle and awl, as shown inl0, and the threadmeasurerg is then turned from the position with itsforked end just under the eye ot' the thread-guide, as shown in Fig. 2,to the position shown in Fig. l0, and in this movement it engages theupper thread extending from the last stitch to the eye of the looper anddraws through the eye of the looper a porA `tion of thread which itholds, as indicated in liuelines, Fig. 9. The needle then comes ,up andthe looper swings around and carries the thread between its eye and theend of the threadmeasurer g into the hook ofthe needle, which thendescends, and at thc same time the arm 7:7" descends, relaxing thethread extending from one side of the needle-hook, and thethread-measurer g turns baek,relaxing the tllread at the other sidc ofthe needle hook, which thus draws down a loop of sufficient length topermit the shuttle to pass through without causing the thread to run inthe hook of the needle, as would be the case it' the thread measurer gwere not used and the thread were carried by the looper direct from thelast stitch into the hook of the needle. The point of the shuttle i isdirectly in line with the shaft of the needle, so that when the shuttleis thrown forward it passes into and opens the loop held on the hookofthe needle.

In order to prevent the loop flom being dragged by the shuttle, aloop-pusher, may be employed, consisting ofa linger, (bcstshown in Figs.l and 2,) which rests against the side of the shuttle inst in front ot'the loop, and holds or pushes the loop toward the rear end oftheshuttle, so that thc shuttle will not drag the loop along with it iupassing through, and when thc shuttle has passed wholly through a loopol' upper thread the loop-pusher or h'nger t is disconnected trom theloop,'which is also cast off or thrown out from the hook of the needleby the device n (see Figs. 4 and 5) on the shuttle-carrier, consistingot' a pair of yielding blocks supported on springs u, Fig. 5, which passover the hooked end ofthe needle, as shown in Fig. 4, pushing the threadout from the hook, and alter this is donc the take-up arm k2 makes itsupward movement, drawing up the loop of upper thread, and with it theunder thread, extending from the 4last stitch to the shuttle, as showniu Fig` 4.

The under thread is at this time held with suiiicient tension to preventit from drawing too t'ar toward the upper surface of the mate rial by atension-pad, e, that clamps the thread between it and the shuttle, asshown in Fig. l, and when this clamp is properly adjusted the parts willoperate to make a lock stitch on thick or thin stock without change ofadjustment.

The actuating mechanism for the shuttlecarrier, loop-pusher t, andtension device ois as follows: The shuttle i is vibrated by theshuttle-carrier r, that consists of a frame having a finger, r', (secFig. 5,)t-hat engages a recess inthe side of the shuttle, as shown inFigs. 3 and 5, and a projection, r2, that engages the rear end of theshuttle, which is placed in the shuttle carrier by a lateral anddownward movement, and then is confined therein by a fastening-plate,1', Fig. 3, that fits in a dovetail guide, r, and serves to hold theshuttle in the shuttle-carrier and shuttlerace. The shuttlc'carrier issupported on an arm, r, pivoted at r at the front ofthe base a of themachine, and connected by a link', T7, with an arm, yr, on therock-shaft d", which is provided with an arm, rl", (see Fig. 1,)actuated by a cam, r, on the main shaft b. The pivotal connections andthe various arms are made adjustable to vary the throw of the op erativeparts in the usual manner.

The loop-pusher t is supported on a lever, I', pivoted at l? on a studthat is itself pivoted at i3 on a bracket or frame piece. t, fastened tothe framework ot' the machine, as best shown in Fig. 3. The loop pushert has an inward and outward movement toward and from the path of theneedle, produced by the ,vibration of the lever L' on the stud t2, andis normally pressed inward, so as to bear against the side ofthe shuttleby a spring, t5, and thus catches the loop just as the point of t-heshuttle enters it, as will be understood from Fig. 2. Then as theshuttle advances and the thicker or wider part comes opposite the looppusher, the latter is moved outward by a lever, t",(s e Figs. l and 6,)having a cam-shaped end, t7, (sec Fig. 6,) that is engaged by thearm rsthat actnates the shuttle. The rear end ofthe looppusher is turnedlaterally toward the rear of the shuttle, as clearly shown in Fig. 2, sothat it tends to open the loop aswell as hold it back toward the rearend of the shuttle when it is moved out by the action ofthe lever t asthe shuttle ad vances. The movement ofthe lever taround the pivott (seeFig. 3) tends to move the end of the loop-pusher in the line ot'movement of the shuttle, and it is normally held just in advance of theneedle and loop by the action of a spring-pressed plunger, t, (see Fig.(3;) but ,just as the shuttle reaches its forward position a projection,t, on the shuttlecarricr engages the arni t', as best shown in Fig. 2,and moves the looppusher t in the same direction as the shuttle farenough to carry its laterallyprojectingend out from thc loop, so as toleave the latter free to draw up, and at the same time the cast-off ualsov passes over the end ofthe needle, as shown in Fig. 4, pushing theloop out from the hook of the necdle,so that it may now be drawn upbythe upward movement ofthe take-up arm 7c".

The tension device or clamp v for the under thread that holds the threadbetween it and the shuttle, as best shown in Fig. 4, is supported on alever, c', (see Fiff. l,) provided IIO with an adjustable lever, v2,which, when the shuttle is in its forward position and the takeup leverk2 is making its upward movement, is acted upon by a cam projection, o3,which forces it down on the under thread and holds the same, so that itwill not be drawn up by the upper thread too near the upper surface ofthe material being sewed, and by properly regulating this device thelock of the upper and under threads will be formed just about midwaybetween the upper and under surface of the material, as desired.

It will be noticed that the upper thread is not waxed until it haspassed the tensionwheel k3, orjnst before it is presented to thestitch-forming devices, and consequently the Vtension-wheel and partswhich operate to take up the loop are exposed only to dry thread, andconsequently do not become gummed up, so as to interfere with theirproper operation, as is the case when the thread is waxed before passingto these devices. Mounting the tension-wheel k directly on the take-uplever and making it and its brake oaportion of the takeup mechanismgreatly sirnplies the machine, which can be operated with great rapidityand certainty, and the construction of the stitchforming devices is suchthat they enter very little into the space around the work support, sothat the machine may be conveniently employed for stitching along thewelt or edge of the sole of a boot or shoe without striking the upper.

The invention is not limited to the construction and arrangement of theparts shown for actuating the main stitch-forming devices, as this maybe greatly varied, and will in practice be varied in accordance with thework that the machine is intended to perform, and no novelty is-claimedfor the coustructionand arrangement shown for these parts, the mainfeatures of novelty consisting in the devices for waxing the upperthread and heating the machine, in the take-up mechanism for the upperthread, the arrangement of the thread measurer and its actuatingmechanism with relation to the looper in the loop-pusher, and the clampor tension device for the under thread. c

I claiml. In a sewing-machine, a movable take-up and waxing-receptacleattached to and movable with said takenp, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine, a movable talieup and waxi ng-reeeptacle fixedthereon, combined with pipes extending along the said takeup andmaintained in communication with stationary pipes on the sewing-machinefor the purpose ot' heating the said arm and waxingreceptacle,substantially as described.

3. In a sewingmachine, a movable takeup, combined with awaxing-receptacle fixed on said take-up, and a tension-wheel on saidtakeup, over which wheel the dry thread passes into thewaxing-receptacle,substantially as described.

4. The combination ofthe movable take-up and tension-wheel supportedthereon with a spring-pressed brake connected with said take-up normallyretained by its sprang-pressure in engagement with said tensionwheel,and a stationary stop on the frame-work in position to be engaged bysaid brake in its m'ovement produced by said take-up, substantlally asand for the-purpose described.

5. The needle and looper, combined with the threadnneasuring device andits supporting sleeve or collar mounted on the shank of the looper, asset forth, and the actuating link, arms, and cani for the saidthreadmeasuring device, which vibrates on an axis concentric with thatof the looper, substantially as described.

6. The combination of a hooiied needle, shuttle and shuttle-carrier, andtheir actuating mechanism with a cast-off composed of yielding blocksthat pass over the end of the needle and throw the thread out from thehook thereof, substantially as described.

7. The combination of the needle and shuttle with the tension device,consisting of a pivoted lever having a thread-holding portion that bearson the thread and clamps the saine between said thread holding portionand the body of the shuttle, and a rotating cam on the main shaft of themachine that operates the said tension device, substantially asdescribed.

S. The combination of a needle and shuttle with the loop engaging fingertand its supportinglever and fulcrumpiece therefor, the said lever beingpivoted on said fulcrumpiece, which is itself pivoted on theframework,combined with means for operating said parts. substantially asdescribed.

9. rlhe combination of the vibratingtake-up arm with a tension-wheelpivoted on said arm and accompanying the movements thereof, a spiingpressed lever, also pivoted on said arm and provided with afriction-block that bears on the said tension` device and constitutes abrake therefor, and a stationary engaging device cooperating with saidpivoted lever, as described, whereby the friction-block is disengagedfrom the tension device during the last partof the movement of thetake-np in one direction, substantially as described.

10. In a sewingmachine, a vibrating take` up arm and waxingreceptaclethereon, combined with a wax-reservoir and passage conneeting the samewith said waxingreceptacle, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed myname to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

HOSEA I. ALDRICII.

Witnesses:

Jos. l?. Lrvnmronu, M. E. Hrm..

IOO

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